History
Since ancient times, due to customs and traditions, this technique has been practiced by women. San Juan weavers gained great popularity in the urban market from the 1960s onwards, when the availability of mercerized cotton threads coincided with a growing appreciation for indigenous designs in highly saturated colors. Originally, threads made and dyed from cotton harvested in the community were used, and some exclusive pieces still contain this type of thread. Natural dyes also continue to be an icon of exclusivity in the textiles.
Today, the Mixtec community of San Juan Colorado, located on the coast of Oaxaca, is one of the Mexican populations that produces the most woven pieces on backstrap looms.
Process
Ideation
They imagine the stories they will depict on the fabric, selecting the colors and threads accordingly. Each design carries deep meaning and symbolism, representing their culture, traditions, and personal narratives. The choice of colors and threads is crucial in capturing the essence of their intended message and bringing their artistic vision to life.
Loom preparation
Thread by thread, they carefully arrange the warp threads to create the desired design and size. The width of the fabric is determined by the "waist" of the artisans, while the length can be as long as needed. Each thread is meticulously placed to ensure the accuracy and precision of the weaving process, allowing them to bring their envisioned design to fruition.
Assembled
The ends of the warp are tied to two wooden bars that provide support for the weaving. The upper end of the threads is secured to a fixed point, such as a tree, while the lower end is attached to a waist belt worn by the artisan. This setup allows for tension to be maintained in the warp, ensuring stability and control during the weaving process.
Weave
The process involves interweaving threads in two layers simultaneously: the warp threads (vertical) and the weft threads (horizontal). One by one, the threads are counted, separated, and woven together, requiring continuous mathematical calculations to create patterns that represent their ancestral iconography. This meticulous process ensures the precise placement of each thread, resulting in intricate and meaningful designs that reflect the rich cultural heritage of the Mixtec women.
Dressmaking
The fabric is made into a huipil, and the entire dressmaking process is 100% manual.
The creation of a huipil can take over a year of work (depending on its dimensions, complexity, and amount of brocade).
